Brushes

My brush of choice is Robert Simmons Titanium.  I have some experience with Robert Simmons brushes as I've used their Sapphire brushes for watercolor painting.  I found the RS brushes have a lot of spring and keep their shape.

When I started out using WMOs paints, I used inexpensive brushes that I found in the clearance section of my local AC Moore store.  Majority of them were $1 each.  It was a "temporary fix" to figure out if I could paint with oils.

One of the key points that I learned early on from my watercolor mentor:  in order to paint well, you have to use good brushes and paints.  I've done plenty of research on the Internet and came across some recommended sable and mongoose synthetic brands as well as the RS Titanium brushes.  I wanted a good synthetic type brush that had some spring to it, not too stiff, and held up well when soaked with water (e.g. washing with soap and water).  The RS Titanium became my first choice.

My local Michael's store carries the RS Titanium brushes.  I used my coupons to purchase the first two basic brushes (filbert and flat) and I gave them a try.  I was hooked.  I bought a set from Jerry's when they had a weekend brush sale back in December.  Since then, I've slowly added to my collection by using Michael's & AC Moore's 50% coupons (Yes! I can use competitor's coupons between Michael's and AC Moore...what a deal!) and also checking Jerry's site for a brush sales.

A few of my RS brushes from my collection

My favorite type of brushes to use are filberts.  It produces great coverage when I need it and I find I have greater control with this brush type when I need to paint edges.  For more paint coverage, my next favorite is a flat or wash type brush.  I am still undecided about the round type brushes.  While that was my predominant brush of choice for watercolors, I don't find them useful with my current painting style.  I'm sure when I branch out to landscape paintings they will be useful.

My New Glass Palette and Multiple Post Day

After feeling refreshed from an early afternoon nap, I started to paint.  I used my glass palette for the first time.  It was a joy to use!  Now, I could kick myself for not using it sooner.

I bought a 12"x16" Masterson's Artist Palette Seal from my local AC Moore (50% coupon).  This palette container has a blue rubber-like cover that snaps shut.  Literally, the cover is a tight fit.  I have to run my palms around the edges to lock the cover in place.  When I'm ready to open and remove the cover, it's hard to pull the cover off.  Other than that, I do like this palette container.  It's huge!

My painting cart with my supplies including my glass palette

I found a piece of glass at my local Home Depot.  It's called Clear Replacement Glass.  It's 3/32" thick and the dimensions are 12"x16".  It fits in my container without any problems.  I just have to be careful of the sharp edges of the glass when I'm handling it.  

Here I've mixed my green values using my stainless steel palette knife:  

My glass palette sitting in a Masterson's Air-Tight Palette Seal

When I finished painting after several hours, I just scraped the paint off and gave the glass a good wipe down with a paper towel:  

Easy clean up!  No fuss, no mess

You've probably noticed that the glass looks gray.  I've placed a piece of gray palette paper underneath the glass.  In my research, I have found that it's easier to see and mix true (correct) colors when the background is gray.  You won't see me using a wood palette or white plastic palette when I'm painting.  

Masterson's Artist Palette Seal and Grey Matters Paper Palette

This 50-sheet pad of gray palette paper will last a long time as I probably won't have to change it out while it sits under my glass palette.  

What Do I Use to Clean My Brushes?

I use synthetic brushes with my WMOs.  I never thought that I would need to preserve them.  After some extensive research, I found something fabulous to use.  Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver.  I bought a huge tub at my local Michael's store (50% coupon).  I really don't buy things in large quantities without trying it.  There were so many reviews and praises...I figured it was a good thing to use.  It's actually a great product!

When I'm finished painting for the day, I take a clean paper towel and remove the wet paint off my brushes.  I use Palmolive to do the initial cleaning of the brushes to remove the majority of the paint.  After a good rinse, I then take each brush and run it over the Master's brush cleaner cake.  I rub my fingers over the brush to work it in between the bristles.  I rinse the brushes until the water comes out clear.  There are times when I see some remnants of paint.  I will continue to run the brush over the cake and rinse until the paint is removed.  

Palmolive dish detergent and Master's Brush Cleaner and Preserver tub

The Master's brush cleaner has a lemony scent.  It really works!

A New Year, Another Painting Area and a Daylight Lamp

To start off the new year with a fresh start, I decided to do some cleaning and reorganizing.  My new easel needed a place to call home.  I found a corner on the main level and had to move around some furniture to make things fit and make things functional for me.  I'm all about comfort and function.  I like this corner because it's between two windows.  Here's my second painting area:

Daylight Lamp:

I found a daylight artist lamp at my local AC Moore store.  I had a 50% off coupon and got a incredible deal.  The Internet could not match this price and when you include shipping costs....  Purchasing this local made more sense.  This daylight lamp is awesome and works great.  It's a bit heavy.  I do have a warning.  It's not that easy to bend even though it says so on the box.  I carefully twisted and turned this...it took 3 tries.  The lamp comes with two bases:  one to clamp onto a desk and one that hangs off an easel (see above picture)

Storing and Drying My Paintings

I've been looking for a drying rack to store my paintings.  I was appalled at the prices I was seeing at my local art shop and over the Internet.  Something so simple, yet so expensive!

I knew there was an alternative.  I went to my local Staples and look what I found:

My new drying rack and only $12!

It's a file sorter.  Eleven slots to be exact.  It looks so nice on my table.  It's also functional!  Notice something funning at the base?  Yes, that is a folded paper towel.  The file sorter needs to be propped up.  Still a great find at a great price!

Water Miscible Oil Paints (WMOs)

When the thought of painting with oils popped into my head, I knew this would be an interesting adventure for me.  I had visited a studio in Old Town and watched several artists painting with oils.  I was intrigued, captured, and just in awe of their masterpieces.  I noticed there were various levels of skills.  A few artists invited me closer to inspect their work of art and told me their stories.  They invited me to sign up for the classes/workshops (waiting list).  At that point, I felt like I was surrounded by an extended family.  That was a wonderful experience for me.

If I was to get into oil painting, I knew there would be some "issues" to deal with.  I've heard about mediums or thinners that have strong odors and could potentially be a fire hazard (e.g. using rags for clean up).  My designated studio area is part of the living area in our house and it would be hard to ventilate/open windows in the middle of winter.

I did some research over the Internet and came up with a solution...Water Miscible Oils or WMOs.  Also known as Water Mixable Oils.  I won't be going into details about the chemical makeup of these oils, but I do want to mention that these oils are great to paint with and also easy to clean up.  WMOs are made from modified binders and with the resulting formula there is no need to use turpentine or mineral spirits.  They say you can mix water with these oil paints, but I prefer not to.  Instead I use the modified Linseed oil or Thinner from the same manufacturer for the WMOs.  No harmful fumes to deal with.  The WMOs handles and paints just like traditional oil paints.

I am currently using Winsor and Newton's Artisan WMOs.  Some artists say these are student grade paints while others consider them to be close to artist grade.  I've seen reference to being economically priced...which they are.  I bought a set of these at Michael's to try out.  Thank goodness for coupons.  The set came with basic colors.  I've learned to use the three primary colors (red, blue, and yellow) and then mix them to create the other colors.  I also purchased the Artisan Thinner.  I'm glad I did.  I have found certain colors to be quite stiff right out of the tubes.  Mixing the stiff paint with a bit of thinner creates a creamier mixture.

The Artisan paint colors that are stiff out of the tubes are:  Titanium white, Zinc white, and Lemon Yellow.  Typically when I mix another color that is creamy with the stiff paint, the mixture becomes creamy as well.

They dry to the touch within 2 to 12 days depending on the colors used.

As I mentioned before, clean up is really easy.  I use Palmolive Clear dishwashing soap to clean my brushes and my acrylic palette and rinse with warm water.

My well used W&N Artisan WMOs come in 40 colors (England)

Another brand of WMO is Cobra by Royal Talens, recently introduced in 2010.  I purchased a set on sale.  I've heard these are artist grade paints and are consistently creamy out of the tubes.  They are probably in the mid-range as far as price.  

Cobra by Royal Talens in 70 colors (Dutch)

Here is the most expensive WMOs...Holbien Duo Aqua Oils.  To my surprise, I found these at my local art shop.  I first saw them online and have found many artists love using the Holbiens.  They are considered artist/professional grade paints with high pigment content.  Out of the tube, I've read they are buttery and consistent.  They dry in about 24 hours.  I really believe that depends on the colors used and if mixed with modified linseed oil.  I think it would dry a bit longer than advertised.  I couldn't resist picking up a few tubes to try.  It doesn't hurt to try, right?

Holbien Duo Aqua Oils available in 80 colors (Japan)

Now, for the not so expensive paints, I present Lukas Berlin.  Dries to touch in 2 to 4 days.  I've heard mixed reviews as to whether they are student or artist grade paints.  They have a buttery texture consistently out of the tube.  For the price, I have to give them a try.  As far as availability, I've found these at Jerry's Artarama.

Lukas Berlin WMOs available in 30 colors (Germany)

I will be updating this post from time to time as I start to use these brands of WMOs and provide comments, likes, dislikes, and recommendations.

Canvas Paper/Pads

I've found a fabulous oil painting support to practice on.  It's canvas paper/pads.  I have quite a bit of experience with the Canson Canva-Paper as this has been my primary support for several small studies.  I've purchased the 12x16 pad size and cut the sheets down to size:  5x7s and 8x10s.  I can actually use a cutting board to cleanly cut the sheets of paper.  Any odd-sized shape scraps are used for documenting colors used in a painting so I can re-create the colors at a later time.  I also use them to paint test colors I mix before committing them to the real painting.


This Canson Canva-Paper is fairly stiff (136 lb paper) and has "the look and feel" of cotton canvas imprinted on the paper.  I like using this paper because of the stiffness and once I've completed a painting I can leave it on a display easel without the paper sagging or curling.

Before I start to paint, I mount the Canva-Paper on a hardboard.  Any firm/stiff board can be used for the backing.  To keep the paper from moving around, I tape the paper down using blue painter's tape.  This tape also helps where I can freely paint to the edges and not get any paint on the hardboard backing.  As you can see, I've used this painter's tape before on another painting project.  I just turned the tape around so the clean side is touching the new project.  

After a few days and when the painting is dry to touch, I gently peel off the blue tape.  I can then leave the painting on a display easel to dry further.  

Another "canvas pad" that I've purchased, but not have used yet is Fredrix.  I can't call this paper as it actually feels like true cotton canvas.  When I lifted the first sheet on the pad, it felt like cloth.  The sheets are not stiff, but flexible.  I guess I should not have been that surprised as the word "paper" is not mentioned/advertised on the pad.  Instead, it reads "genuine artist canvas".  I purchased a huge 16x20 pad at my local Michael's (w/coupon) and had to literally hand cut a canvas sheet down to four 8x10s.  Sharp scissors worked nicely.  

I'm undecided how I'm going to mount this canvas before I start to paint on it.  I've heard other artists use a hardboard (e.g. 8x10) and glue the canvas to the board.  I may have to try that.  This Fredrix Canvas Pad will be a good alternative to use after I graduate from using the canvas paper.

Here's paper cutter similar to the one I use to cut my Canson Canva-Paper: